We Kayaked the Mar Menor at Sunrise to Beat August's Heat

Set an alarm for half five in August and most people will think you've had one too many at the 19th hole. But sit through a midday kayak on the Mar Menor in August, the kind where the water looks like a griddle pan and your arms feel like lead by the second bay, and you'll set that alarm again without a second thought. That's what my mate Dave and I did last week: paddled out from Los Alcázares before the sun was properly up, and honestly, it might be the best hour we've spent outdoors all summer.

We'd talked about doing a sunrise paddle for about two years and never got round to it, mostly because getting out of bed before 6am on holiday feels like a crime against the concept of holiday. But August changes the maths. By 11am the beach car parks are full, the water's full of jet skis and paddleboarders, and the heat sits on you like a wet towel. Sunrise, on the other hand, is glass calm, empty, and blissfully cool. So we thought we'd share what we learned, and where's actually worth launching from if you fancy giving it a go yourself.

Sunrise vs Midday vs Sunset: No Contest

We've kayaked the Mar Menor at all three times of day now, so here's the honest comparison.

Midday is a mistake in August, full stop. The water's warm as bathwater by then (lovely for swimming, less lovely for paddling hard), the light's harsh and flat for photos, and you'll be drenched in sweat before you've gone 200 metres. There's more boat traffic to dodge too, which isn't much fun when you're sitting low in the water and everyone else is going twice your speed.

Sunset is the popular choice, and fair enough, it's pretty. But it's also when half of Los Alcázares has the same idea. You'll be sharing the water with other kayaks, paddleboarders, the little tourist boats out of Santiago de la Ribera, and a fair few people who've had a couple of beers at the chiringuito first. Nice atmosphere, less nice if you actually want a bit of peace.

Sunrise wins on every count that matters to us. The water's dead calm because the wind hasn't picked up yet. The light does that pink and gold thing over the water that makes even a phone photo look decent. And it's cool, properly cool, the kind of cool that doesn't exist again until October. We had the whole bay pretty much to ourselves bar a couple of fishermen and one very committed open water swimmer.

Los Alcázares or Santiago de la Ribera: Where to Launch

We launched from the beach near the Paseo del Carmen in Los Alcázares, but we've also done it from Santiago de la Ribera before, so here's how they compare.

Los Alcázares is the easier option if you're staying anywhere near Roda Golf, since it's a short drive down. Parking's straightforward at that hour (you'll get a space right on the front, which never happens by 10am), the beach shelves gently so getting the kayaks in and out is easy even half asleep, and there are a couple of bars along the front that open early enough for a coffee once you're back on dry land.

Santiago de la Ribera has the nicer paseo to look at while you paddle, all those old villas and the yacht club, and the water tends to be a touch clearer. But parking's trickier even early, and the walk from car to water is longer with kayaks under your arms, which at 6am with no coffee in you is not what you want.

If you're weighing it up, we'd go Los Alcázares for convenience and Santiago de la Ribera for the view. We didn't try Lo Pagán this time but a few locals swear by it too, especially if you want to follow the paddle with a dip in the mud baths. That one's next on our list.

What You Actually Need for a Sunrise Paddle

Nothing complicated. Reef shoes or old trainers for getting in and out (the shoreline can have the odd bit of shell or weed), a dry bag for your phone, and a proper bottle of water even though it's cool, because you'll still work up a sweat paddling. Sun cream too, don't be fooled by the low sun, it still catches you by 7am in August. We hired our kayaks from a place on the Los Alcázares front for a few euros an hour, no booking needed if you turn up early enough.

Worth the Early Start?

Completely. We were back at our villa by 8am, showered, and eating breakfast on the terrace while everyone else was still asleep, feeling like we'd already won the day. If you're staying in one of the holiday rentals near Roda Golf, the Mar Menor coast is close enough that a sunrise paddle barely eats into your morning, and you're back in plenty of time for an early tee time before the course gets properly hot too (have a look at our golf courses near Roda Golf if you fancy pairing the two).

It won't suit everyone, we'll admit that. If you're not a morning person, the thought of an alarm before 6am on holiday probably sounds worse than the heat itself. But if you've ever fancied having a bit of the Mar Menor entirely to yourself, this is how you do it in August. For more on getting around the area and what else is worth doing nearby, our local area guide covers the rest of the coast, and if you want recommendations on where to hire kayaks or book anything for your stay, just get in touch with us. We're always happy to point people in the right direction.