We Joined San Javier's Autumn Tapas Route for a Cool Evening

Nine o'clock, jumper weather, and a fistful of little paper tickets. That's how you know autumn has properly landed round here. San Javier's tapas route kicked off last weekend and a few of us from the resort decided to swap the usual golf-club dinner for an evening wandering between bars instead. Turns out that's a much better way to spend a cool September night than we expected.

If you've never done one of these routes, it's simple enough. You buy a strip of tickets from a stand near the town hall, and each ticket gets you a tapa and a small drink at any participating bar. You wander from one to the next, comparing notes as you go. It sounds like a small thing but after a summer of sitting still in 35-degree heat, actually walking somewhere between courses felt like a novelty.

Old Town San Javier vs the Santiago de la Ribera Waterfront Spots

The route splits roughly into two camps, and we ended up doing both over two separate evenings, which honestly was the right call because they're completely different moods.

The old town bars, tucked round Plaza Cronista Bernardo Garre and the streets behind the church, are what you'd picture when someone says traditional Spanish tapas bar. Marble-top counters, hams hanging from the ceiling, and owners who've clearly been perfecting the same three tapas for twenty years. The michirones (those spiced broad beans that turn up everywhere in this part of Murcia) were the standout for us, along with a salt cod dish at one place that had a queue forming by half nine.

Head down towards the Santiago de la Ribera waterfront instead and the whole feel changes. You're eating with a view of the Mar Menor rather than a church wall, prices creep up slightly, and the crowd skews a bit younger and a bit more dressed up. The food leans more modern too, think tuna tartare and prawn croquettes with some sort of citrus foam, rather than the classic stuff. Neither is better exactly, but if you're after the proper local flavour, the old town wins. If you want a nicer setting for a date night, the paseo has it beat easily.

Our Head-to-Head: Two Bars, One Winner

Since we're British and can't resist ranking things, here's the honest verdict on the two bars that impressed us most.

Bar one, an unassuming spot just off the main square, did a grilled octopus tapa with paprika oil that four of us fought over the last piece of. Quick service, cheap wine, no fuss. Bar two, right on the Ribera front, did a beautifully presented seared tuna with a wasabi mayo that looked lovely on the plate but honestly didn't taste all that different from what you'd get with any decent tuna and a squeeze of lime. Presentation ten out of ten, flavour maybe a six.

Our vote goes to the old town, and it isn't close. The portions were more generous, the staff had time for a chat, and there's something about eating standing at a bar counter with locals either side of you that a smarter waterfront terrace just can't replicate. That said, if you're staying nearby for a longer break and fancy a proper sit-down dinner with a sea view on a different night, the Ribera front is worth the drive.

Why Autumn Is the Season to Do This

We tried the same sort of thing in July a couple of years back and it was miserable. Too hot to walk between bars, too sweaty to enjoy a glass of red, and the tapas themselves felt like an afterthought compared with just wanting something cold. September and October flip all of that. The evenings have that first bit of proper coolness, you can actually enjoy a walk between stops, and the bars aren't rushing you out the door to turn tables over for the next lot of tourists.

It also pairs nicely with a round earlier in the day. A few of us played a relaxed morning session before heading in for the evening, and honestly a tapas crawl is a far better reward than the usual clubhouse sandwich. If you fancy planning a similar day, it's worth checking what's on across the local golf courses near Roda Golf before booking a table for the evening.

A Few Practical Bits

Sort a designated driver or stick to the old town on foot, because parking near Plaza de España fills up fast once the route gets going. Cash is still king at most of the smaller stalls, even though card machines are creeping in everywhere. And go early if you want the good stuff, the michirones bar we mentioned had sold out of its signature tapa by ten most nights.

Worth Building a Weekend Around

If you're visiting rather than living here full time, this is exactly the sort of thing that makes a September or October stay feel like more than just quieter beaches and cheaper green fees. San Javier is a short hop from most of the holiday rentals near Roda Golf, so there's no reason not to base yourself locally and just wander in for the evening. We've written more about what makes this pocket of the Mar Menor tick over on our area guide, and if you want tips on timing a visit around local events like this one, our team is happy to point you in the right direction.

We'll be doing the route again before it wraps up for the season, and next time we're skipping the fancy tuna and heading straight back to that octopus. Some things really don't need improving.