How to Spend a Day at Murcia's Cathedral and Old Town Lanes

Murcia city is the one place near Roda Golf that most golfers skip, and I think that's a mistake. It's only about 45 minutes up the road, the cathedral is properly spectacular, and the old town lanes are where you'll find the best tapas in the region. So the real question isn't whether to go. It's how to split your day between the big-ticket cathedral and the tangle of little streets around it.

I've done this day trip more times than I can count, usually when the golf clubs need a rest and the wife wants some culture. Here's how the two sides stack up, and where I'd spend my time.

The Cathedral: Big, Bold and Worth the Ticket

The Catedral de Santa María sits on Plaza del Cardenal Belluga, and it hits you the second you walk into the square. The façade is full-on Baroque, all curls and statues, and it looks almost too fancy for a Tuesday morning. Inside it's a mash-up of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque, because it took about 300 years to finish.

What's good about it

The bell tower is the star. You can climb it (there's a ramp for much of the way, so it's gentler than you'd think) and the view over the terracotta rooftops and the river Segura is brilliant. On a clear October day you can see right out to the hills. The Vélez Chapel is also lovely, with that over-the-top Gothic ceiling that makes you crane your neck until it hurts.

What's less good

Queues, mainly at weekends. Opening hours also shift around Mass times, and the tower sometimes closes without much warning, so check before you go. If you've got a dodgy knee, the climb will test you. And it's an hour or so of your day that you can't spend sitting in the sun with a beer.

Autumn is a good time for it, though. The summer heat has eased off, so you're not melting on the climb, and the light in late October is gorgeous for photos.

The Old Town Lanes: Where the Day Actually Gets Fun

Now, the cathedral is the thing you tell people you did. The lanes are the thing you'll actually enjoy. Wander off the main square and you hit Calle Trapería and Calle Platería, the old shopping streets, with the odd faded sign and a few shops that look like they haven't changed since my dad was a lad. Then there's the Plaza de las Flores, a lovely little square with cafés where you can sit with a coffee and watch the world go by.

The tapas

This is where Murcia beats everywhere else nearby. The city is famous for its produce, being the "huerta de Europa", so the veg is spot on. Order a plate of zarangollo (courgette and egg scramble), some michirones if you're feeling brave, and a marinera, which is a Russian-salad-topped bread ring with an anchovy on top. Don't ask me why it works. It just does. Most bars will give you a free tapa with your drink, which is a lovely tradition.

The downsides

It's easy to get a bit lost, and some of the lanes are very narrow. Many shops shut for siesta between about 2pm and 5pm, so if you're hoping to browse, do it in the morning. Sundays can be very quiet too.

So Which One Wins?

Honestly? The lanes, by a nose. The cathedral is something you only need to see once, and an hour is plenty. The old town you could happily spend half a day in, and you'll want to come back.

My suggested day goes like this:

• Arrive by 10am, park in the underground car park near the river (street parking is a nightmare).
• Cathedral and tower first, before the crowds.
• Coffee and a wander around Plaza de las Flores.
• Long tapas lunch around 2pm, when the locals eat.
• Back to the coast before the evening traffic.

Murcia is also lovely on a wet day, as plenty is indoors, which is handy given October can turn on you. If you want a base for trips like this, have a look at our holiday rentals near Roda Golf, which put you within easy reach of the city and the coast. And if the day trip has you planning a longer stay, our area guide to the Mar Menor and Costa Cálida shows how everything fits together.

Not sure what to fit around your tee times? Browse the golf courses near Roda and plan a lighter round on the morning you head into the city. Or just get in touch via our contact page and we'll point you in the right direction. Either way, a tapas lunch in Murcia is the perfect way to recover from a bad round.